LEICA ZM1 AND ZM2 WATCHES: MADE IN GERMANY WITH BESPOKE MOVEMENTS
Following the showcase of various mechanical watch prototypes during the opening of Leitzpark III in 2018, Leica has been diligently refining and developing these concepts. This effort culminated in a limited debut of their innovative wristwatches last year. Now, taking significant strides forward, the Leica ZM1 and ZM2 watches are entering a phase of increased production, becoming more widely available through Leica Stores globally.
Embarking on their horological journey, Leica's ZM1 and ZM2 models stand out as noteworthy initial ventures. Unlike many emerging watch brands that often resort to using standard ETA or Sellita movements, focusing primarily on the aesthetics of the case and dial while minimizing complications, Leica charted a different course. The ZM1 and ZM2 showcase entirely custom, hand-wound movements adorned with a suite of complications, including a patented push-crown mechanism. Such an investment in developing proprietary movements is a rare move for a newcomer in the watchmaking scene, especially one aiming to introduce a genuinely distinctive feature.
Design Philosophy
The design ethos of the ZM1 and ZM2 watches mirrors the minimalist yet sophisticated mechanical elegance that is characteristic of Leica's cameras and lenses. This deliberate design continuity is the result of collaboration with Professor Achim Heine of the Berlin University of the Arts, a designer who has previously contributed to Leica's camera projects, bringing the brand's signature aesthetic to the timepieces.
Crafted from 316L stainless steel, the watches feature a 41mm diameter, a 14.5mm thickness including the domed sapphire crystal, and a 48mm lug-to-lug span. The cases blend satin-finished sides with polished shoulders and bezels. The dials, made from milled aluminum, boast a matte black finish with a subtle texture, diamond-cut hour markers and hands plated in polished rhodium, and a decorative ring around the small seconds sub-dial at 6 o'clock, highlighted by a red seconds hand.
The movement, visible through a large sapphire glass case back, eschews the ornate decorations common in this price segment for a more understated elegance. It features a simple sandblasted finish that allows the precision of the steel gears, polished screws, golden gear train, balance wheel, and ruby bearings to shine without distraction. The brushed steel bridges contribute to the movement's clean, functional beauty.
Leica Caliber ZM1 and ZM2 Operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, the ZM1 and ZM2's hand-wound movements boast a 60-hour power reserve and introduce several novel complications. Developed in partnership with Lehmann Präzision in Germany's Black Forest, these movements differentiate the two models: the ZM1 provides time and date functions, while the ZM2 adds a 12-hour rotating inner bezel for tracking a second time zone, controlled by a third crown and featuring a day/night indicator for complete GMT functionality.
A unique feature on both models is the push-in center crown, which halts the escapement and allows for precise time setting, accompanied by a visual indicator that changes from white to red. Winding the watch is achieved by rotating the crown in its normal position, with a power reserve indicator tracking the winding status. The date function is easily adjusted via a push button on the case side, enhancing functionality and user experience.